ZENITH DEFY SKYLINE BLACK CERAMIC AND DEFY SKYLINE SKELETON BLACK CERAMIC

Zenith Defy Skyline and Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic Edition Avant-garde, stealthy, scratch-resistant... Can these two become the best interpretation of Zenith luxury sports watches?

Zenith's 2022 Defy Skyline collection is making waves in an industry we love, the luxury sports watch segment. Inspired by the original Defy line of watches from the company's archives, this modern sports watch is available in a variety of sizes, styles and colours. Although stainless steel and blue are the most classic and popular styles, the most eye-catching Defy Skyline is undoubtedly the black ceramic pair that was launched earlier this year during the Watches & Wonders show. Like the steel models, both are available in full-dial or skeletonized-dial configurations. Equipped with an automatic movement based on the legendary El Primero, the Defy Skyline and black ceramic Defy Skyline Skeleton came under scrutiny today.

Previously, the Zenith Defy Skyline and Defy Skyline had a stainless steel exterior, while these black versions feature an all black ceramic finish. Zenith has a long history with this material, so it's no surprise that the brand is finally incorporating it into the avant-garde style of its luxury sports watches. The scratch-resistant case measures 41mm x 11.6mm and fits comfortably on the wrist. Sharp angles and edges give it plenty of character, accentuated by the 12-sided black ceramic bezel. On the right, a solid screw-down crown allows you to easily adjust the time and date (if present).

The style of the dial, whether open or closed, is similar to previous versions of the Defy Skyline and Defy Skyline Skeleton, such as the lovely Boutique Edition. Starting with the simplest of the two, there is a four-point star pattern across the dial, adding depth and character. Large applied hour markers with minute markers in between, together with large sword-shaped hour and minute hands, provide excellent legibility. Reading the time at night is also a breeze, as the hands and hour markers are heavily coated with Super-LumiNova. On the left is 1/10th of the second subdial, with the date display at the opposite end.

The skeletonized version features the same hour markers and hands, but reveals the movement underneath. Its shape is like a four-pointed star, a symbol of Zenith's core, with a black finish on the top structure and a clearly visible charcoal element below. Most of the balance wheel in the upper left corner, the half barrel, the travel time mechanism, and the keyless mechanism are clearly visible. The 1/10 second indicator on this watch is at 6 o'clock and the date has been removed.

Zenith is of course synonymous with El Primero, and although neither of them has a chronograph function, the El Primero 3620 (or the skeletonized version of the 3620 SK) is based on the architecture of the legendary automatic chronograph. From the back, the action looks the same, but from the front, it's clearly a completely different story. The four-point star-shaped dial, through which you can see the hollow main board and the parts of the running mechanism. Other differences between the two are the 1/10th position of the second subdial (at 9' for the closed dial and 6' for the open dial) and the date. It exists in Defy Skyline, but not in Defy Skyline Skeleton.

You could debate the significance of the 1/10th of a second indication on a non-chronograph watch, but it does have something to do with the El Primero's high frequency of 5Hz. It is driven directly by the escapement, which has a silicon escape wheel and lever. When the five-point star-shaped oscillating weight is fully wound, the movement can provide a power reserve of 60 hours. To complement the dark exterior of the exterior, almost the entire movement also features a dark hue, with only a few components breaking up the monotonous color scheme.

Zenith presents a complete set of black ceramic Defy Skyline or Defy Skyline Skeleton watches with black ceramic bracelet and black rubber strap. Both can be easily swapped thanks to the integrated quick release system, one of the easiest to use I've experienced. Simple buttons at either end of the case back release the bracelet, and the rubber strap snaps easily into place and vice versa. Personally, I think the best way to go is with a full ceramic bracelet, as the fit and finish is excellent. The rubber strap also feels really good on the wrist, so in terms of comfort, either will do. The quick-release buttons also don't puncture the skin, which is pleasing.

It looks really cool on the wrist and is very well made. Whether you prefer the full stealth mode of a closed dial or the style of a skeletonized dial, these two avant-garde luxury sports watches are a joy to wear.

Personally, I like to see as much of the movement as possible, and generally prefer a single sub-dial placed at the bottom of the dial, so I went with the Defy Skyline Skeleton. To me, the watch face looks more balanced despite its busier style. The vertical arrangement of the hands is accentuated by the four-point structure on the movement, which is more telling to me.

TECH SPECIFICATIONS – ZENITH DEFY SKYLINE BLACK CERAMIC AND DEFY SKYLINE SKELETON BLACK CERAMIC
Case: Diameter 41mm x Height 11.6mm - Faceted black ceramic case, satin-brushed and polished - 12-sided bezel, vertical brushed - Screw-down crown - Double-sided sapphire crystal - 100m water resistance
Dial: Black dial, sunray pattern or skeleton dial - rhodium plated, faceted and coated with SuperLuminova SLN C1 hour markers and hands - contrasting minute track - 1/10 sub-second display at 9 o'clock or 6 o'clock ( Skeleton) – date window at 3 o’clock for non-skeleton reference
Movement: El Primero 3620 (SK in skeletonized version), in-house – automatic winding – 36,000vph – central hours and minutes, 1/10th of a second indication – power reserve approx. 60 hours – star rotor, satin-finished – skeletonised Skeletonized main board and bridges
Strap: Black ceramic bracelet and folding clasp - additional black rubber strap with black PVD stainless steel buckle and folding clasp.
Ref: 49.9300.3620/21.I001 (Defy Skyline)
49.9300.3620/78.I001 (Defy Skyline Skeleton)